The adjustable lateral rod will tighten up cornering and allow you to center your rear end after you have lowered your car

The RCA blocks
 

AE86 Steering Spacers
 
 There are a few secrets to steering angle that are not covered in any book or known to many. Something for sure that people do know is that the more angle you have, the greater angles you can achieve while drifting, the more impact you have, and with more angle when you make a mistake you have a better chance to catch it before you spin or hit something.

For the AE86, there are multiple different stock steering components. First off, almost all US GTS models came with power steering. Non power steering racks are mostly found in the SR5's but are a pretty rare find. What may not be known to most is that there are big differences between the two setups.  There are 2 main differences between the non power cars and the power rack cars that affect angle. First is the rack length. The non power unit has more turns lock to lock, meaning it has a longer center shaft.  The second difference is the knuckles. The distance from the kingpin to the outer tie rod end. On the non power it is longer so that it is easier to turn since you don not have assistance of power.

 

For a rack and pinion, the 2 main things that limit the angle is the length of the center shaft ( how many turns from lock to lock it has) and the distance from your kingpin and the outer tie rod end. So with the AE86, your lucky enough to be able to change a few parts around to increase your angle. Originally the easiest setup that many do know of is to use the non power rack (since it has a longer center shaft) with the power steering knuckles (which are shorter). This will give a significant increase in angle, the draw back is unless you frequent a wreaking yard, its hard to obtain all the parts needed to do the swap. Mainly because it is not a direct bolt in to the power column.  There are 2 kits that Battle Version has produced to make things a bit easier to get an increase in angle. Mainly because there are differences in the racks between years. For instance the non power rack has a shaft length of just under an inch longer then the power units. There are also differences between the 85 power rack and the 86/87 power racks. On the power rack units, the center shaft is machined differently. Meaning the 85 rack has a couple extra teeth machined into the center shaft.  

Battle Version Steering Kit #1 AE86 

 

This kit is designed to fit all setups on the AE86. To install simply remove your inner tie rod ends and place these spacers on the thread portion, reinstall your inner tie rod ends and do your toe alignment. What they do is add 10mm of length (3/8ths of an inch) to the center shaft of the rack. Which means you have more turn to turn distance and will equal to about 8 more degrees of steering angle.  

Battle Version Steering Kit #2 AE86

 
 

  This kit is specificly designed to fit ether an 85 power steering rack with pump removed and no fluid, or a non power rack with non power knuckles. That being said, there are a few reasons for this. Kit #2 includes an actual extension piece and a stopper to fit on the left (passenger) side of the rack along with a 5mm spacer for the right (driver) side of the car. By adding an extension, it allows you to get 20mm overall length to the center section of the rack which dramaticly increases angle. Almost 20 degrees more which is about the same as replacing your rack with a non power unit.  The reason why it will only fit the 85 power rack is because that rack has more teeth machined into the center shaft then the 86/87 models. You have to understand that you cannot run power steering if you have this spacer on. It is because by adding that much length, the end of the shaft will go into a pressurized area of the rack and leak very badly. This isn't much of a problem for most who have done motor swaps as they have already taken there power steering pumps off. This kit is a very inexpencive way to get the angle that a non power rack has with out having to replace the rack unit itself.  

  Now for the people with a non power rack unit already. This kit does have an advantage over having the power knuckles (short ones) or even with the steering kit #1 along with that. If you use the non power knuckles (long ones) with this kit, the advantages are you do get a touch more angle, the steering is easier to turn, and it is allot smoother at high angles. What may happen sometimes is you may get steering shutter with short knuckles. By using long knuckles it elimates this problem. This is the setup I personally run on my car and would suggest to anyone who has the means to do it. Being able to dive into corners at a high angle without the worry of spinning is the best feeling and has the most impact on the judges and crowd.   

The installation can be tricky to first time installers but it is rather easy if you follow a few steps. First remove your inner tie rod ends. Then place the spacer on the drivers side and reinstall that side. Next put the extension piece and stopper on the passenger side and reinstall.

 Now this is where it can get a bit tricky. Since you add more length to one side of the rack, you must recenter the steering wheel. This is to give you the same amount of turns or angle on each side. In order to do this, use a tape measure.  Measure the distance from the inner tie rod to the rack (where it would hit the rack) on the drivers side. And on the passenger side, measure from the stopper to the rack (where the stopper would hit the rack). You need to make both sides equal lengths, on the 85 rack it will end up about 2 and 7/8th inches.

This is the new center of your steering and now you can go ahead and do the alignment. What I have noticed on a few cars is that you may run out of adjustment or threads on the inner and outer tie rods on the passenger side in order to get the right toe setting. If you do end up with this problem, simply remove the outer tie rod and cut or grind some of it off.